Cryptic food and drink

A col is a gap or a pass, usually in respect of between or through mountains.

I have been going through a list of French authors in my head, but none of Zola, Proust, Diderot, Sartre, de Beauvoir, Verne, Stendahl, Camus, Flaubert, Voltaire, de Balzac, Hugo, Baudelaire, Moliere or de Maupassant fit the bill. Other French authors are available.
 
A col is a gap or a pass, usually in respect of between or through mountains.

I have been going through a list of French authors in my head, but none of Zola, Proust, Diderot, Sartre, de Beauvoir, Verne, Stendahl, Camus, Flaubert, Voltaire, de Balzac, Hugo, Baudelaire, Moliere or de Maupassant fit the bill. Other French authors are available.

I've probably written a bad clue but the answer is amongst those you listed. The clue as to which one is in the clue.
 
I can see a Proust/sprout anagram, but 'recollected' suggested to me a reversal of letters somewhere.

Yes - its just 'sprout' - recollected wasn't supposed to mean reversed - there is a website with a list of anagram indicators and that was one of them - chosen because of the Proust reference.
 
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