Cacao trees are often farmed on deforested land, degrading soil and requiring heavy doses of fertilizer and pesticides. But “the socioeconomic consequences of rolling out [lab-grown chocolate] at large scale could be huge for the smallholder farmers in West Africa”, who rely on cacao sales for their livelihood, says Sophia Carodenuto, a political geographer specializing in global food systems at the University of Victoria.
“Lab-grown chocolate may be innovative, but it can’t replace the heritage, livelihoods and soul behind real cocoa,” says Shirley Temeng-Asomaning, founder and CEO of Chocolate Mall, a Ghana-based confectionery company. “My hope is that science will complement and not compete with the farmers who built this industry, and that technology helps make chocolate more sustainable, not less human.”