British Indian Restaurant (BIR) cooking

vernplum

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I've run out of batch/pre-cooked BIR ingredients in my freezer so it was time for me to whip up some more. Since I'm going through the process I thought I'd share it here too.

'BIR' as the title says, is an acronym for British Indian Restaurant. I don't really know that much of the history of the food but I do know that it's descended from that which was cooked to the liking of British colonists of India during the British Raj (colonisation of India) and also that it's somewhat of a misnomer in the modern day, since the majority of curry houses in the UK are Bangladeshi-owned and run. Nevertheless, what Brits get when we 'go for a curry' on a Friday night has a taste that is known and loved across the islands with some iconic dishes such as Chicken Tikka Masala and Lamb Vindaloo, many of which have evolved away from their parent recipes and country(s) of origin to almost be considered distinct. In any case, it's these restaurant tastes that BIR cooking enthusiasts are trying to replicate and emulate and with restaurant and takeaway quality currently going through a bit of an iffy patch IME, sometimes, to improve upon, not to mention that ol' chestnut 'saving money'.

The crux of it is this: 'Indian' restaurants use batch/pre-cooking techniques that enable them to whip up lots of curries in a jiffy and it's these methods that imbue that 'restaurant' taste that you will find hard to recreate if you follow a normal step-by-step and ingredient-by-ingredient recipe from say, a Madhur Jaffrey book. There's nothing wrong with those, it's just that those can be more time consuming and are not designed to scale quickly, but those have their own upside, which is that you can get more taste variety. In BIR cooking, since there is a tree of dependencies and precursors that are used across the majority of dishes, if you eat a great deal of it, you may start to notice that some dishes can taste quite similar.

The foundation of a restaurant curry is what is referred to as 'base gravy' which is basically a spiced stock whereby large quantities of onions with a smaller assortment of other vegetables are caramelised to a degree then cooked down with water until they have a melted consistency, then blended. In curry-house kitchens you will see a huge pot of this being kept warm for use in each order; a ladle-full here and there forms the main semi-liquid matrix of the dish.

Restaurants also rely on pre-cooked meats - lamb, beef, chicken and it has to be done this way because something like lamb takes a very long time (a couple of hours) to boil to tender, so to avoid customers having to wait eons till the point of near starvation, the meats are cooked in advance in spices until its time to use them. Another secret ingredient will be the restaurant's 'mixed powder' which is a general purpose spice blend which you can think of as 'curry powder' to some extent and virtually all of the dishes include a garlic/ginger paste mix that is blended in advance.

At the time an order comes in, each different dish will have some combination of whole spices (things like black mustard seed, fennel seed, star anise, bay leaf, cinnamon etc) along with powdered spices (cumin, coriander, turmeric, chili powders of various types etc.), mixed powder, sometimes tomato puree/paste and then whatever that dish calls for in terms of the meat/protein, other vegetables/additions such as coconut milk, chutneys etc. and then of course the base gravy I talked about.

In this thread I hope to show how to go from zero to producing some completed dishes, focusing on what we call 'curries' (i.e. I won't be showing how to cook onion bhajis, or naan breads - I'm more of an expert in boiling things for a long time).

So, if you want to know how Indian restaurants 'do it' and how to replicate that restaurant taste, stay tuned!

P.S. Yes, I have been to India (about 5 times I think - Bangalore, Mumbai, Hyderabad). Also, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka multiple times each too. I love much of the food in these places (er, also, there's some which I didn't really fancy tbh) which is 'same, same but different', but also, infinitely more varied. I think BIR cooking captures only a sliver of what the subcontinent has which is to be expected.
 
In this thread I hope to show how to go from zero to producing some completed dishes, focusing on what we call 'curries' (i.e. I won't be showing how to cook onion bhajis, or naan breads - I'm more of an expert in boiling things for a long time)

Mod.comment: a reminder that recipes need to be posted in a separate thread but can be linked back here.

I'm a great fan of BIR cooking and indeed of all Indian cooking. Its possibly one of the things I do best. As does karadekoolaid.

BIR Cooking overlaps significantly with traditional Indian cooking. There is a sort of myth that it is somehow different, but in reality most of the dishes are based on traditional Indian cooking. But as you say, it doesn't represent the whole of India. Many if the dishes rely on one or two base curry sauce recipes, which are always to hand.

The Curry Guy is something of an aficionado: Curry Recipes | A Culinary Journey of Spicy Cuisine | The Curry Guy
 
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Wonderful thread!
I grew up , in the 60s/70s on the "Curry Inn" style Indian cooking.. It was the perfect excuse to keep tipping back the beers after the pubs closed, at 10.30pm.
There was a Curry Inn in Maidstone which I and a few friends frequented almost every Friday/Saturday night. Then, when I went to London to study , there was Anarkali, in Balham; a notch above my Curry Inn. As vernplum so rightly points out:
'Indian' restaurants use batch/pre-cooking techniques that enable them to whip up lots of curries in a jiffy
so there was always a "gravy" ready, the ginger/garlic paste, the chile paste and the par-cooked meat and veg. Having been brung up on a diet of meat&2veg, usually overcooked and swimming in gravy, Indian food was a delicious, exotic alternative, with plenty of vegetarian options. I also had two aunts on my mother's side, one married to a guy from Hyderabad and the other married to a guy from Karachi.
The menus were fairly standard. Korma was mild, Madras was medium, Vindaloo was hot. You could choose between chicken, lamb, vegetable and prawns. Typical starters were onion bhajis, dhal soup, samosas. You'd find wonderful biryanis (chicken, lamb, vegetable or prawns) and usually tandoori chicken (chicken ostensibly cooked in an Indian tandoor oven, and served bright red with onion rings and lemon slices). Veggie dishes included Madras potatoes, chickpea curry, aloo saag (potatoes with spinach), okra curry and aubergine/eggplant masala.
As time went on, the menus expanded to include jalfrezi (a medium hot curry with leftover meat from the day before), Pakistani pasandé ( to satisfy the need for beef), dhansak (loads of lentils) bhuna and the lager lout combo: Tindaloo (extremely hot) and phaal ( absurdly hot).
When I left the UK in 1981, things were still much the same; the only authentic Indian restaurant I knew in London was the East India Club in the Strand, where they served authentic South Indian cuisine; dosas, black masala chicken and chile pakoras. Unfortunately, it closed for good in 2023.
 
Mod.comment: a reminder that recipes need to be posted in a separate thread but can be linked back here.

I'm a great fan of BIR cooking and indeed of all Indian cooking. Its possibly one of the things I do best. As does karadekoolaid.

BIR Cooking overlaps significantly with traditional Indian cooking. There is a sort of myth that it is somehow different, but in reality most of the dishes are based on traditional Indian cooking. But as you say, it doesn't represent the whole of India. Many if the dishes rely on one or two base curry sauce recipes, which are always to hand.

The Curry Guy is something of an aficionado: Curry Recipes | A Culinary Journey of Spicy Cuisine | The Curry Guy

Yep. I have one of the the Curry Guy's (Dan Toombs) books (The Curry Guy Bible) which is really great. There are a couple of other YouTube channels in addition to his I would recommend which are Al's Kitchen, Latif's Inspired and last but not least Misty Ricardo (Richard Sayce) who also has a great book called Misty Ricardo's Curry Compendium.
 
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